East Coast: Odds and ends (and reposts)

Part 8: Byron Bay

Day 15: Brisbane to Byron Bay

Off I was, yet again! I had my first female Greyhound driver for this last ticket. We passed through Gold Coast and then entered New South Wales, one state closer to home, as I headed to my final destination of my trip. While on the bus, I got some unfortunate news: our sea kayaking tour had been cancelled for that afternoon due to rough waters. Unfortunate, but part of the play when most of your entertainment involves the outdoors. I called to see if we could reschedule or go on a waiting list for the sunrise kayak the next day, the only one that worked with our schedules, but was full online. I’m not sure how they swung it, but we were able to sneak into that slot, so we had our hopes back up again! 

I arrived in Byron at 10, went and dropped off my things at the hostel, and found Sydney. We started off strong, walking to the lighthouse at the easternmost point of mainland Australia. On our way back, we detoured to The Pass and Fishermans lookout. The Pass is what made Byron Bay famous, apparently because of its routinely good waves for surfing, that consistently break in the same direction and with a long run before the shore. We then needed some lunch, and went to a place that made some really good tacos. So good, we went back for dinner later. But in between our two sets of tacos, we picked up slashes, hit up the beach, the hostel pool, and took in the sunset. The beach was so nice, we even saw some dolphins from the shore. Swimming in the bay was great, the waves had enough of a swell to be [fun] but not bash us around. I think we might be part fish. There was a noticeable current though, but we just accepted that we would float down to the end of the flagged (lifeguarded) area then get out and walk to the other end. Can’t be taking too many risks – no drowning allowed! Our parents would kill us 🤣 

After the hostel pool, we showered and headed back to the bay to watch the sun go down. Because Byron Bay faces north, it gets a pretty mean sunrise and sunset. Of all my days in Byron, I think the first sunset was my favourite:

Then we had tacos round two. The plan for the evening was to go to the Great Northern Bar, which is known for its duelling pianists, but it was too early for that, so we walked around town and sat by the water for a while, until the incoming tide chased us away. Then we stopped in at another bar that had live music on before the piano bar became more lively. Luckily there was no line to get in, which is one of the perks of going at 9 pm. The piano bar was so good! The two musicians took requests and it was one massive singalong. As tempting as it was to stay all night, we had our sunrise kayak booked, so we called it quits early enough to be well-rested for the morning. 

Day 16: Byron Bay Day 2

Our kayak tour was so good! The launch from the beach was the sketchiest part, with us paddling as hard as we could to get through the breaking waves as fast as possible. The strategy is to paddle straight into them so you don’t get flipped over. We  made it to the swell in one piece, but not all of our group could say the same. 

We kayaked up to Fishermans lookout, watching the early morning surfers and then seeing some dolphins! Byron bay has a resident population of bottlenose dolphins, with a couple having distinguishable features and names. We saw stumpy, who had an unfortunate encounter with either a shark or a propellor at some point. 

Following our kayak, we dropped by the hostel for Sydney to pick up her things, as she was headed out shortly. We got some brekky from two different bakeries, and went and sat by the beach to soak it all in for a little longer. After we parted ways, I moved to the shade (as I do) and sipped my iced coffee as I journaled for a while.

I spent the afternoon reading and writing by the hostel pool, kept company by their resident dog, Bailey. Then later in the afternoon, I headed to the beach to flop around in the water a bit and then watch the sunset. I enjoyed the beach a bit too much and ended up a little hangry, but nothing an Aldi macaroni and cheese couldn’t solve. 

I ended up going out for the evening with a couple people I met at the hostel I was staying at. It was nice! One of the things I enjoy about meeting new people is that we get to know today’s iteration of each other. We are always learning and growing, I like being able to think about who I am today, the sum of every experience I’ve ever had. Maybe I just like to think? That might be it. I went to bed early, while the others stayed out, because I had a sunrise and the surf to catch in the morning. 

Day 17: Byron Bay Day 3

My day started before 5, and I walked out to Cape Byron to watch the earliest sunrise on mainland Australia. The sunrise was incredible, watching the clouds change from red through orange and then the sun broke over the horizon and started to unleash its path on us for the day. Definitely worth the early wake up call.

I walked back to town, had a coffee and a snack on the beach, then enjoyed the beautiful weather before it was time to check into my lesson. There was about 20 of us, and we went to Lennox Head, about 20 minutes south of Byron Bay. Surfing was SO MUCH FUN. I did better than I anticipated, and even stood up a handful of times, catching the wave for various lengths of time. The waves really batter you though! I was exhausted by the end, but sold enough to book a second lesson for the day after. 

I can see why people live and breathe to surf, the feeling of being in the moment with the wave was nothing like I’ve ever felt. It is all so dynamic, being at the complete [mercy] of the water. After our lesson, we stopped for a swim in Lake Ainsworth, with plenty of Melaleuca trees around to give the water ~healing powers~, which were needed for my board rash. Worth it, though. The freshwater felt so good after being absolutely brined all morning, from the inside out, considering how much saltwater I swallowed.

Some of the things I learned in my lesson:

• Assume you’re always falling into 6 inches of water
• Always shield your head when breaking the surface (boards hurt!)
• Waves break where it gets shallow
• Spots without “white” (broken) waves tend to be where the rips are (deep channels where the water flows back out) 

I spent this afternoon also chilling by the pool, moving spots to stay in the shade as the sun moved westward. I went to the beach around four and found a shelled creature! I was standing there over the moon, completely unsure what it was. I’m just happy to see new animals! After holding it for a few minutes, it stepped on me and spat sand onto my hand! Stepped on meaning it put its foot onto my hand, which really felt more like it was licking me. Tonight’s sunset was a great close to another day. Because Byron Bay is north facing, you can visit the same beach and get the sunrise and sunset.

Dinner tonight was easy: one of the women I went out with the night prior and I made a version of bolognese in the hostel kitchen. And put more than our fair share of cheese on it, no regrets. 

Day 18: Byron Bay Day 4

My last full day in Byron Bay had me searching for a cafe that opened before 6 am because my body decided I needed another sunrise. Luckily, I was successful! I ended up with an iced honey latte, which was a change from my usual vanilla, but yummy. I took it to the beach with me and soaked up all of the happenings around me as the day kicked off.

I posted my sub plans for the first day of school while on the bus riding to my surf lesson, what a life. Surfing today was good, though I found it harder than day one. Probably due to having sore surfing muscles. I ended up salty and board rushed, but it was so worth it. A group of us from the surf lesson went out for lunch, then spent the afternoon on the beach. And beach we did! I got my first sunburn, on my westward facing leg, oops! I tried my first açai bowl ever, Byron Bay seemed as good a place as any to try the food. For whatever reason, açai bowls just scream NSW to me. 

The group went and sat on the warm rocks at the west end of the beach to watch the sun sink over the [NAME] mountains and listen to some live performers. That was about it for my evening, I went back to my hostel for my last night and ate my leftover bolognese.

Day 19: Byron Bay Day 5

The last day of my trip! Today, I sat on the beach and watched the sunrise, then had a swim with all the fish. After my swim, I went back to pack up and check out of my last hostel. I was ecstatic to be spending a night in my own bed where I could starfish! Twin beds are okay, but I was definitely missing my own space. After checking out, I went to a cafe and savoured my coffee while writing in my journal. 

Next stop was Ben and Jerry’s, because it was free ice cream day? I’m not complaining. Then round three at the taco place Sydney and I loved, to finish sampling their taco offerings. I think my favourite of them all was the pork carnitas. A very chill day, and no delays for my flight, thank goodness! I landed in Melbourne about 6:00 pm, and absolutely collapsed into bed.